Serengeti Moments

We'll the train was canceled so we're back in Dar.... AGAIN! But it means I can post some pics from our Safari in the Serengeti.

Jess and Shully

Zebra crossing

Look Mr Frodo... it's an Oliphant!

A whole herd of them Sam!

Say g'day to 3.5 million Wildebeast

Tricky to spot them leopards.... but we got him.

If you want to know more about Buffalo ask Pauly. One hit his tent!

Giraffe are cool

And fun to chase!

Lion cubs are cute

Yep still cute

Especially at dinner time

A view over the plains

A Serengeti Sunset

Zanzibar Nutshell

I don't know what Muslims call it, but when they get up before sparrows fart and start chanting their prayers over the loud town speaker its time to move on. So we have... yep back to Dar... again. Not for long though as we'll be on a train back to Mbeya in a couple of hours.

As for Zanzibar, we'll other than the unrequested wake up calls I can't fault the joint. Seriously though why do they chant over the loud speaker? I respect their rights to worship their religion but not at the expense of some early morning shut eye for the rest of us. Ten past four they started this morning, that's not even a set time? But don't let my whinging deter you Stonetown in Zanzibar is a great spot to visit.
It's one of those medina set ups where you ain't got a hope in hell of finding your way around, but somehow you still do. Spice tour is good too, but I wasn't impressed with the chocolate plant. I'm not a fool I knew it wouldn't be wrapped in foil, but I hoped it would at least taste somewhere close to a Mars Bar. Nope its texture was closer to a soaked cotton ball and it's taste was well.... hello.... where are you? Later in the tour our guide took us to some old slave caves. The history seemed really interesting except for one thing. I couldn't understand a single word our guide was saying. He was so keen to tell us all about the Sultan and how he kept slaves in the cave that he forgot one little detail the English language. All I got was something about using rope, swimming hole, crocodiles in the dark and tip me more and I'll take you to show. Needless to saw all in our group passed on his generous offer.
The tour guides in general here in Africa have been a little sub par. They are just too eager to tell you everything and show you around, and it doesn't make sense as the rest of the country seems to have all the time in the world to do things... 'pole pole' (slowly slowly) being the motto of life over here. But the minute you pay them money to show you around they switch into overdrive. One time back in Mozambique at some botanical garden place in Penhalonga we had to ask our tour guide to leave us alone because he literally had a jogging to keep up with him. I guess they just need a little more training.

So now it's back to Malawi for us and some volunteering in Nkhata Bay.

PS Zanzibar banana chocolate pizza things rock!

Mount Kilimanjaro - Summit Day

I'm in a bus we've just finished safari in the Serengetti and we're heading back to Dar.

I never wrote another entry on Mt Kilimanjaro. It was attempted many times but this is the first time in 10 days since the mountain I've had some thought space to write. The short of it is we made the summit (yay!), but not as planned. On day 5 after reaching Barafu hut at lunchtime Hashim decided we'd make an afternoon attempt on the summit. It was weather related. There had been a big storm overnight and the climbers who summited had a horrible time of it. We saw them scattered around Barafu. Bloated, sun burnt and totally dishevvelled, as though they had just come off the frontline of a ferocious battle. The weather was clear that afternoon and Hashim wanted us to make an attempt before the storm returned and we'd had time to let the magnitude of the task sink in. His words 'Lets go to the top now. Don't talk to the other hikers'. So we ate lunch and left. His decision was well judged, for even though it was very difficult (Chris suffered badly from altitude sickness and was carried by Jamal & Roman for the last section) the weather stayed clear and we were treated to a glorious sunset.

At the summit (5895mtr) I got down on one knee and asked Jess to marry me, she said yes which sent my head spinning, then about 15mins later we descended in the twighlight as the storm rolled in. We got back to Barafu camp quite exhausted at around 8pm.

I can still see the summit out the bus window. From here it looks like someone has poured a small helping of white topping on some chocolate ice cream. From a distance that is all they look like, nothing much really. But they are the last glaciers in Africa and up close their beauty is unparalleled, as were my feelings as I gazed across a silk blue skyline a top the highest peak on the continent.

Jess and Jamal enroute to the summit

Jess at Stella point

Our team at the summit (left to right - Roman, Paul, Me, Jess, Hashim & Chris)

Paul & Jess (Mt Mwansi in background)

Me & Jess

Taking a break at the summit

Northern Icefield

Rebmann Glacier

Rebmann Glacier (close up)

Mount Kilimanjaro - Day 5

Was awoken by rain and wind, thankfully it has now subsided and the clouds have cleared a little. The summit is right above us covered in a fresh layer of overnight snow. I figure the snowline comes down to about 4800mtrs so tonights ascent will at least have no rain involved.

Yesterdays hike was short and not too difficult although crossing the 'kissing stone' on Barranco wall took a little bit of agility, in the wet it would be quite hazardous. So far no one has suffered altitude sickness other than a little light headedness on the aclimitisation walks. Yesterdays was a quiet affair, no one spoke for the whole ascent. It allowed us to hold great rhythm though and I could tell Hashim was pleased with it. He is a very quiet person and very in tune with his mountain, niether hold any secrets from the other. He'll look at the sun filled sky and say 'rain in 2 hours'. Then right on cue the clouds will build and yep it will start raining two hours later.

Today we're off to Barafu hut (4600mtrs) then at midnight we start our attempt on the summit, I just hope the wind holds off.

The summit peaks through the clouds at Karanga camp

Climbing the Barranco wall - near the 'kissing stone'

Mount Kilimanjaro - Day 4

Back in the meal tent, I'm the first up today after my best sleep to date. The face of Barranco wall is towering above our camp. Fresh overnight snow sits a few hundred meters above us along the ridge. I hope we get to walk through some snow today.

As the days pass I'm feeling more confident about our group. Yesterdday was a good test. We reached lava tower after 3hrs 20mins, passing most other groups along the way. We all felt a little light headed at the top but nothing to worry about.

I have begun chosing my words more carefully before speaking, its the altitude. When you're sitting still its fine, but on the uphills the deep breaths just aren't there, you suck it in but you can't get your fill. The experience is great though, I'm paying more attention to our surroundings as a result.

This morning we scale Barranco wall, soon after if the weather allows we'll be able to see our route to the summit. After my first decent sleep the task doesn't seem so daunting.... I'm starting to get excited!

Jess and Paul at Lava Tower (4600mtr)

Flora from a different world

.

Barranco Wall

Jess at Barranco campsite

Mount Kilimanjaro - Day 3

Another restless night. I don't think its the altitude as much a rambling mind in the dark. I'm sitting in our meal tent looking out at the summit. The sun hasn't risen yet over it's peak and most of the Shira plateau is still in shadow. On yesterdays walk Hashim told of the Elephant and Buffalo herds that live up on the plateau, there is just so much beauty in this region. Today we set off for the lava tower. It's at 4600mtrs and will be our first major test of altitude. I'll listen to our guides today 'pole pole' all the way.

Paul's shirt froze over night

We're getting closer..... slowly

Mealtimes are always a reason to smile

These birds are as big a pelican

Mount Kilimanjaro - Day 2

Slept poorly, but the blue sky morning brought a smile. After a hearty breakfast and birthday greetings to Jess we set off. The terrain was steeper than yesterday but our pace was slower and no one struggled. We reached camp at midday just before the rain started. After some poopcorn and a nap we set off for an aclimitisation walk to to 4050mtrs. Jess got a nice surprise after dinner from the crew. Cake, Champange and then they started singing some special Swahili songs for her, the whole campsite was awash with their voices. Afterwards Jess had to feed cake to everybody, as per tradition apparently. The evenings events were very memorable experience for all of us.

Blue sky morning

Shira campsite (3800mtrs)

Jess and her birthday cake

Jess feeding our head guide Hashim

Mount Kilimanjaro - Day 1

I have attached an extract of the diary entries (with some photos) I wrote while climbing Mt Kilimanjaro. Our trek began on the the 4th of March 2010. We started on the Machame route with a view to complete the full ascent and descent in 7 days.

Day 1

We started off at 11:30AM from Machame gate, altitude 1800mtrs and spirits high. Our guide Hashim set a delibrately slow pace along a well treaded path through the thick rainforest. After a generous lunch of burger, chicken and bananas we continued. Hashim kept a closer eye on us after lunch but didn't enforce a slower pace until just before camp.

'Tomorrow more slowly', he said as we reached the Machame hut campsite (3000mtr).

As soon as camp was set up rain set in and the four of us (Jess, Paul, Chris & I) sat in the eating tent sharing our stories. Chris is a student from Sweden. He is young and enthusiatic about the climb, I think he will do well. Paul is my best mate from Australia, we don't get to catch up much and its great that he has come out to join Jess and I for Kili.

Dinner was generous - fish, patatoes, stew and vegetables. The rain stopped before sunset and the clouds cleared to reveal the summit, It looks so close, but it's still 5 days away.

Our porters helping with our bags. We had 9 porters in total

At the Machame entry gate

Jess and Chris into their tucker box

Day 1 destination

Mt Kili summit in the background

Mbeya Cafe

I'm sitting at a table in a cafe. It's mid afternoon on a cloudy day. There is a nice green lawn in front of me and over a small fence to my left there are views across the Southern Tanzanian highlands. I can see some rainclouds forming around Mt Loleza.

Yesterday we farewelled Malawi. At the border we didn't have any US currency for the Tanzanian Visa ($50USD). Despite our best efforts in Karonga (the last bank town in northern Malawi) we couldn't get hold of any and we told this to the immigration officer. He was sympathetic to our plight and quickly onto his phone to his dealer. Ten minutes later we were in his back office changing Kwacha for Greenbacks. I couldn't help musing at the official sign above the guys desk - Black market money changing strictly illegal. Overall it was a much smoother border crossing than our last.

The staff are mulling around chatting. I'm the only customer and I've only troubled them with a bottle of coke. I can hear the faint whistle blast from a distant train. We'll be on one tomorrow heading for Dar Es Salam on route to Kilimanjaro. We attempt the mountain in a week or so. I'm a little anxious. Travellers we've met have said that it's the last day that is the tough part. It starts at about 11PM and finished about 4PM the next day. Climbing through the night is what gets you, it's freezing cold they say. A successful ascent should see you summit between 6AM and 8:30AM no later. My uncertainty is mostly around altitude sickness. The mountain peaks at 5900mtrs. None of us have ever been that high, I have no idea how we'll react.

The rainclouds around the mountain are clearing now, some blue sky is peaking through. I'll take it as a good sign.

Nkhata Bay - Lake Malawi

It's just after 8, I'm sitting in a local restaurant waiting for my banana pancake. Restaurants give you time over here, or should that read 'be patient'. Generally the wait is around an hour after ordering. I don't mind so much as it's not like I'm in rush to do things. Today I have made the time allowance deliberately as I'm diving in the lake at 9:30. Not sure what to expect as it's my first fresh water dive since Wraysbury (Heathrow, UK) a muddy dam of about 12 degrees.

I went for a run yesterday. It gave the locals a bit of a shock, voluntary exercise isn't really grasped over here, they thought I was late for something. We're staying at a place called 'Big Blue Star' right on the cliff shore, the views are impressive. When we arrived off the ferry there was a local guy in reception holding a tortoise. He was there for a job interview. One of the guests was quite horrified and negotiated it off him for a dollar, promptly releasing it into the wild. We all watched it waddle back up the hill, no doubt it will be back again soon for another sale.

There is thunder rumbling across the lake and the clouds are rolling in. Hopefully it doesn't mess too much with the visibility on the dive. At least the water is warm, 28 degrees we were told yesterday, very generous. My pancake just arrived, smells delicious. By the way tortoise man got the job.

Views across Lake Malawi

Farewell Mozambique

It was our last day in Mozambique, it started in the granite hills of Cuamba in the same way many others had, a 4AM chapa, mind you this one didn't even leave town until 7AM. The road was particularly bad, dirt, mud and potholes for the duration of the 200 clicks. At around midday we hit the border town of Mandimba.

The doors of the van opened and we were free game, about 20 people on us instantly. Money changers, refresco sellers, food vendors, taxi riders all shouting at us louder than the guy next to them so that we could hear about their superior product or service. After 8 hours in the cramped minivan apparently a minute to stretch your legs isn't part of the package and Jess and I just had to make do.

As the tax riders fought over our packs we tried to get our head around changing Meticash into Kwacha. I had a vague knowledge from an outdated Lonely Planet that a USD is worth around 140K and I knew it was also worth about 30Mets but with the locals yapping at us bugger me if I could work out the X factor of Met to Kwacha. They insisted it was 195 so we went with it and despite some attempts from them to confuse us with bad English we only got slighted a couple of dollars. We then looked around and saw our packs were being guarded by two guys sitting on their bicycles gesturing us to get on. I glanced at Jess, we both shrugged - when in Rome.

It was the first time in 3 days we could take in some scenery without the murmur of engine noise and we we're lapping it up. Balanced precariously on the pack rack of some old Amsterdam style bikes we were making the 7km final push for the Malawi border with the lush undulating hills of Mandimba as a backdrop. As our riders sweated the pedals Jess and I happily greeted the smiling locals as we passed. Almost at the border and Jess passed the comment 'Have you got your hiking boots?' The question blasted me back to reality. Shit! No I didn't. Just as we hit the border post we worked out they were still in the min van. In all the commotion I'd forgotten rule no.1 - Get your stuff! It had been 30mins and the rider reckoned 'maybe' the van would still be in town, as for my boots? Well with Mt Kilimanjaro only 25days away I had to try.

I left Jess with our packs borrowed the guys bike and sped back into town. I soon had more praise for my driver as I discovered the pedals were loose and the brakes didn't work. After replacing the chain twice in a sweaty, greasy mess I arrived back at town and again I was descended upon, but this time with curious looks. I looked around but our van was no where in sight. With broken Spanish/Portuguese and hand gestures I was able to explain my dilemma. In minutes the whole street was in discussion. Then a bloke with a motor bike appeared out of no where and another bloke jumped on the back. Seconds later they were speeding off into the dust shouting 'Boots, boots!' as they went. I only assumed they planned to chase down the van.

I hunched down on the curb, holding out little hope for their success. Not long had the dust settled had the vendors gone back to their routines, reshuffling soft drinks in their warm coolers, rotating corn cobs on the open fires. At other times I have considered these lives of basic activity and how seeing a white guy ride in on a bicycle would be something of an event, but now I was just lamenting my own stupidity of being the main act. Suddenly I heard a bike down the road. In a plume of dust and exhaust smoke it zoomed around the bend. As it came into focus I saw the guy on the back holding something. It came closer and I saw a pair of black sandals held in his hand. The idiot has taken someone else's shoes! As the bike pulled up I notice the huge grin on their faces and I look down. The driver is wearing my boots! To raucous applause he took off my boots and held them aloft. He then handed them to me and I gave him 1000k's for the trouble. I think it was about $8AUD but it may as well been $8Mil as the crowd went wild. Amongst the applause I put on my boots and rode back to the border to met Jess. Exhausted but richer for the experience.

Jess and our taxi rider

Heading back to the Border

No one goes hungry

'Hey give me a break, I haven't sold a single toothbursh!' I couldn't hear the exact conversion but body language speaks volumes over here.

We're sitting at a train stop in the village of Ribaue and the market is alive. It actually arrived with our train and will probably depart with it too. The guy selling the pens did very well, even though none of the blue ones actually worked, not a problem the green and red work fine - for those who actually chose those colours. The kid selling the donut looking things did great too. I think thats why toothbursh kid was a little unhappy when donut boy got cheeky with him. Sales had been great, his whole bucket was empty saving some scraps at the bottom and Donuts was counting his tidy wad of Meticash when toothbrush boy picked up some of the last morsels out of his bucket for a feed. Donuts knew Macleans was having a tough day but still gave him the look and asked the question of payment. When none was offered (well Macleans hadn't made a single sale) Donuts then started perusing Macleans merchandise, finely imported chinese 'Cool Jet' toothburshes offered at 5Mets a piece (20cents). Thats when Macleans snapped, for there was no way he'd give up one of his toothbrushes for the few crumbs he'd just eated. Thankfully Donuts was only joking and it went no further. The market has just disbanded, hopefully our train will do likewise.....

Train ride from Nampula to Cuamba

Pop up - rail side market at 'Ribaue'

Try and spot Donuts & Macleans... there in there!

Ilha de Moçambique

The fan is making a flickering strobe effect on the light, the room needs a sign 'Epileptics be warned'. I switch off the light. I'm feeling stronger now, at least enough to eat. A bread roll with peanut butter smeared on it. I bought the rolls from a local market this morning. The vendor had stood there looking at me as though I should know what to do. Thankfully my prolonged blank response was enough to kick him into gear. How was I to know you select the rolls yourself, it would have felt rude. Anyway they taste good, still soft on the inside.

Last night was rough, I lost count after my tenth trip to the loo. I factored a few bouts of diarrhea into the itinerary but even so it's not fun. I thought I had a fever too so Malaria was on my mind, thankfully it was just from sun exposure - our stocks of sunscreen are very depleted and they don´t sell it here, our current supplies are borrowed from our last hostel owners.

Uve just switched on some tunes, soft Caribbean reggae beats. It suits. The passerbys by like it too, humming along as they pass the window. Ruby's has only been open two months yet most of the islanders can assist you with directions, it will prove a good business. Ihla de Mozambique itself is a very special place, easy to see why it´s World Heritage listed. The street scape has changed little over the last 100 years, apart from a little wear and tear, which only adds to it´s charm. Would be good though if ´M-Cel´ hadn´t gotten it´s hands on this place, they´re doing the 'Coca-Cola' thing with mobile phones here in Mozambique. It´s good to see some investment, but when see their bright yellow and green logo is painted all over every hut in a remote village in the middle of nowhere, well it can get a bit much. This island has an impressive fort, I think tomorrow I will have the strength to visit.

Potholes and Sweat

Today for the first time I have braved the front seat. I was apprehensive at first but it ain´t so bad up here, much more leg room. I´ve got a little african kid sitting next to me. He likes my biscuits, but not my bananas, some things are the same everywhere.

Last night was another typical Mozambique evening, humidity levels off the chart. The sweat dripped down my back as I picked off my prey from under my mozquito net. I´ve got my bedtime mozzie technique down now. First I set up the net, stretch it out, tuck it under the mattress at each corner. Then I put my supplies in, head lamp, silk sheet (sleeping bag a waste of time so far), bottle of water and maybe a book. When all is ready I quickly duck under the net and reseal it. Then I put on the headlamp turn it on full and hone in on my targets. You´d think when you first get under the net there wouldn´t be any mozzies... but they are always there... I think they camp out there during the day. The other night I woke up and killed 10 of the barstards. I had left the smallest of gaps.... I won´t make that mistake again.

Our driver just drove through a roadblock rope by accident, it was a withering old piece of twine setup before a bridge, it snapped like a twig. He wasn´t paying attention. The police on patrol are lightening his wallet right now, a few hundred Mets should do it, about $10AUD. On a whole the driver has done well today, it ain´t easy driving in Mozambique. The roads are potholed like Swiss cheese, even those not long laid are crumbling along the edges, as if wild animals come out of the bush at night and nibble on them. We´re on our way to Chomio, I think we´ll get there by lunch.

No Mans Land

Yesterday we were in no man’s land for about 15mins. Distance wise I would estimate it to be around 300mtrs between the border of South Africa and Mozambique. In this place businesses of every nature go on. Hawkers flogging goods at ‘special just for you…. Zulu prices’, money changers offering crazy exchange rates that would send the world back into a GFC, I even saw a bloke get handcuffed by an army dude because he was holding onto his bag too tightly.

I asked Jess if we could get a slice of the incredible exchange rate action going on, she declined. I asked again, she declined. Instead we went into one of the more esteemed establishments set up along ‘No Mans land’. It said “Insurance” out the front, but our bus conductor gave us good instruction… ‘Yes, money, change’ pointing at the hut. It had more resemblance to a temporary tuck shop back at Hampton Primary School, than a place of currency exchange, but we decided to try our luck.

We stepped inside to four Africans sitting around a table laidened with notes stacked inches high… all we needed was a black briefcase with ‘the goods’ and it had Hollywood drug deal scene take 1 written all over it. I decided against asking the question whether they change money figuring that would put us on the back foot for the negotiation, instead I just took out all our money and started counting. At this stage one of the money exchange street hawkers started banging on the window ‘4.2… 4.2’ I heard through the glass. It was a good rate so I repeated it to drug lord sitting behind the desk. His reply was a deep laugh that only a Nigerian could pull off.....‘4’ he replied. I looked at Jess and briefly considered arguing the point. I placed the Rand on the counter and we watched as he counted out his notes, all the while his three cronies stood there not letting their eyes off us.

‘4400’ he said through his cigar as he placed the last note in front of me. I knew it was a little short, but it was clear the negotiation phase had passed. We took the money and stepped out of the shop and back into the peaceful mayhem of ‘No Man’s Land’, feeling somewhat inducted into it’s chaotic realm.

Sun City

‘Let go…. come on, you can do it’ I shouted from below.
‘I don’t want too…… aarrgggggh’
In the end it took a little bit of an assisting shove from the lifeguard, but that’s how they roll in SA. Having screamed all the way Jess stood up and pulled her wedgie out, she was grinning from ear to ear…. and why not, she had just conquered the city of Sin’s most daunting….. ‘Slide of Courage’.

None of my mates are quite sure when Sun City was built, they just say sometime in the 80’s.... and it makes sense to leave it that way. As that decade seems like a fitting birth time for a city that is destined to always stand out in the crowd. Wedged between the spectacular rolling hills of the Pilanesberg National Park and the flat industrialised platinum planes of the Northern Province, Sun City is simply a place one must see.

And yes it has a monorail!

The Slide of Courage

Darryl Jane & Paige

Jess and me

The Valley of Waves

Inside the Casino

A scenic shot