I'm sitting at a table in a cafe. It's mid afternoon on a cloudy day. There is a nice green lawn in front of me and over a small fence to my left there are views across the Southern Tanzanian highlands. I can see some rainclouds forming around Mt Loleza.
Yesterday we farewelled Malawi. At the border we didn't have any US currency for the Tanzanian Visa ($50USD). Despite our best efforts in Karonga (the last bank town in northern Malawi) we couldn't get hold of any and we told this to the immigration officer. He was sympathetic to our plight and quickly onto his phone to his dealer. Ten minutes later we were in his back office changing Kwacha for Greenbacks. I couldn't help musing at the official sign above the guys desk - Black market money changing strictly illegal. Overall it was a much smoother border crossing than our last.
The staff are mulling around chatting. I'm the only customer and I've only troubled them with a bottle of coke. I can hear the faint whistle blast from a distant train. We'll be on one tomorrow heading for Dar Es Salam on route to Kilimanjaro. We attempt the mountain in a week or so. I'm a little anxious. Travellers we've met have said that it's the last day that is the tough part. It starts at about 11PM and finished about 4PM the next day. Climbing through the night is what gets you, it's freezing cold they say. A successful ascent should see you summit between 6AM and 8:30AM no later. My uncertainty is mostly around altitude sickness. The mountain peaks at 5900mtrs. None of us have ever been that high, I have no idea how we'll react.
The rainclouds around the mountain are clearing now, some blue sky is peaking through. I'll take it as a good sign.
Friday, February 26, 2010
Tuesday, February 23, 2010
Nkhata Bay - Lake Malawi
It's just after 8, I'm sitting in a local restaurant waiting for my banana pancake. Restaurants give you time over here, or should that read 'be patient'. Generally the wait is around an hour after ordering. I don't mind so much as it's not like I'm in rush to do things. Today I have made the time allowance deliberately as I'm diving in the lake at 9:30. Not sure what to expect as it's my first fresh water dive since Wraysbury (Heathrow, UK) a muddy dam of about 12 degrees.
I went for a run yesterday. It gave the locals a bit of a shock, voluntary exercise isn't really grasped over here, they thought I was late for something. We're staying at a place called 'Big Blue Star' right on the cliff shore, the views are impressive. When we arrived off the ferry there was a local guy in reception holding a tortoise. He was there for a job interview. One of the guests was quite horrified and negotiated it off him for a dollar, promptly releasing it into the wild. We all watched it waddle back up the hill, no doubt it will be back again soon for another sale.
There is thunder rumbling across the lake and the clouds are rolling in. Hopefully it doesn't mess too much with the visibility on the dive. At least the water is warm, 28 degrees we were told yesterday, very generous. My pancake just arrived, smells delicious. By the way tortoise man got the job.
I went for a run yesterday. It gave the locals a bit of a shock, voluntary exercise isn't really grasped over here, they thought I was late for something. We're staying at a place called 'Big Blue Star' right on the cliff shore, the views are impressive. When we arrived off the ferry there was a local guy in reception holding a tortoise. He was there for a job interview. One of the guests was quite horrified and negotiated it off him for a dollar, promptly releasing it into the wild. We all watched it waddle back up the hill, no doubt it will be back again soon for another sale.
There is thunder rumbling across the lake and the clouds are rolling in. Hopefully it doesn't mess too much with the visibility on the dive. At least the water is warm, 28 degrees we were told yesterday, very generous. My pancake just arrived, smells delicious. By the way tortoise man got the job.
Views across Lake Malawi
Tuesday, February 09, 2010
Farewell Mozambique
It was our last day in Mozambique, it started in the granite hills of Cuamba in the same way many others had, a 4AM chapa, mind you this one didn't even leave town until 7AM. The road was particularly bad, dirt, mud and potholes for the duration of the 200 clicks. At around midday we hit the border town of Mandimba.
The doors of the van opened and we were free game, about 20 people on us instantly. Money changers, refresco sellers, food vendors, taxi riders all shouting at us louder than the guy next to them so that we could hear about their superior product or service. After 8 hours in the cramped minivan apparently a minute to stretch your legs isn't part of the package and Jess and I just had to make do.
As the tax riders fought over our packs we tried to get our head around changing Meticash into Kwacha. I had a vague knowledge from an outdated Lonely Planet that a USD is worth around 140K and I knew it was also worth about 30Mets but with the locals yapping at us bugger me if I could work out the X factor of Met to Kwacha. They insisted it was 195 so we went with it and despite some attempts from them to confuse us with bad English we only got slighted a couple of dollars. We then looked around and saw our packs were being guarded by two guys sitting on their bicycles gesturing us to get on. I glanced at Jess, we both shrugged - when in Rome.
It was the first time in 3 days we could take in some scenery without the murmur of engine noise and we we're lapping it up. Balanced precariously on the pack rack of some old Amsterdam style bikes we were making the 7km final push for the Malawi border with the lush undulating hills of Mandimba as a backdrop. As our riders sweated the pedals Jess and I happily greeted the smiling locals as we passed. Almost at the border and Jess passed the comment 'Have you got your hiking boots?' The question blasted me back to reality. Shit! No I didn't. Just as we hit the border post we worked out they were still in the min van. In all the commotion I'd forgotten rule no.1 - Get your stuff! It had been 30mins and the rider reckoned 'maybe' the van would still be in town, as for my boots? Well with Mt Kilimanjaro only 25days away I had to try.
I left Jess with our packs borrowed the guys bike and sped back into town. I soon had more praise for my driver as I discovered the pedals were loose and the brakes didn't work. After replacing the chain twice in a sweaty, greasy mess I arrived back at town and again I was descended upon, but this time with curious looks. I looked around but our van was no where in sight. With broken Spanish/Portuguese and hand gestures I was able to explain my dilemma. In minutes the whole street was in discussion. Then a bloke with a motor bike appeared out of no where and another bloke jumped on the back. Seconds later they were speeding off into the dust shouting 'Boots, boots!' as they went. I only assumed they planned to chase down the van.
I hunched down on the curb, holding out little hope for their success. Not long had the dust settled had the vendors gone back to their routines, reshuffling soft drinks in their warm coolers, rotating corn cobs on the open fires. At other times I have considered these lives of basic activity and how seeing a white guy ride in on a bicycle would be something of an event, but now I was just lamenting my own stupidity of being the main act. Suddenly I heard a bike down the road. In a plume of dust and exhaust smoke it zoomed around the bend. As it came into focus I saw the guy on the back holding something. It came closer and I saw a pair of black sandals held in his hand. The idiot has taken someone else's shoes! As the bike pulled up I notice the huge grin on their faces and I look down. The driver is wearing my boots! To raucous applause he took off my boots and held them aloft. He then handed them to me and I gave him 1000k's for the trouble. I think it was about $8AUD but it may as well been $8Mil as the crowd went wild. Amongst the applause I put on my boots and rode back to the border to met Jess. Exhausted but richer for the experience.
The doors of the van opened and we were free game, about 20 people on us instantly. Money changers, refresco sellers, food vendors, taxi riders all shouting at us louder than the guy next to them so that we could hear about their superior product or service. After 8 hours in the cramped minivan apparently a minute to stretch your legs isn't part of the package and Jess and I just had to make do.
As the tax riders fought over our packs we tried to get our head around changing Meticash into Kwacha. I had a vague knowledge from an outdated Lonely Planet that a USD is worth around 140K and I knew it was also worth about 30Mets but with the locals yapping at us bugger me if I could work out the X factor of Met to Kwacha. They insisted it was 195 so we went with it and despite some attempts from them to confuse us with bad English we only got slighted a couple of dollars. We then looked around and saw our packs were being guarded by two guys sitting on their bicycles gesturing us to get on. I glanced at Jess, we both shrugged - when in Rome.
It was the first time in 3 days we could take in some scenery without the murmur of engine noise and we we're lapping it up. Balanced precariously on the pack rack of some old Amsterdam style bikes we were making the 7km final push for the Malawi border with the lush undulating hills of Mandimba as a backdrop. As our riders sweated the pedals Jess and I happily greeted the smiling locals as we passed. Almost at the border and Jess passed the comment 'Have you got your hiking boots?' The question blasted me back to reality. Shit! No I didn't. Just as we hit the border post we worked out they were still in the min van. In all the commotion I'd forgotten rule no.1 - Get your stuff! It had been 30mins and the rider reckoned 'maybe' the van would still be in town, as for my boots? Well with Mt Kilimanjaro only 25days away I had to try.
I left Jess with our packs borrowed the guys bike and sped back into town. I soon had more praise for my driver as I discovered the pedals were loose and the brakes didn't work. After replacing the chain twice in a sweaty, greasy mess I arrived back at town and again I was descended upon, but this time with curious looks. I looked around but our van was no where in sight. With broken Spanish/Portuguese and hand gestures I was able to explain my dilemma. In minutes the whole street was in discussion. Then a bloke with a motor bike appeared out of no where and another bloke jumped on the back. Seconds later they were speeding off into the dust shouting 'Boots, boots!' as they went. I only assumed they planned to chase down the van.
I hunched down on the curb, holding out little hope for their success. Not long had the dust settled had the vendors gone back to their routines, reshuffling soft drinks in their warm coolers, rotating corn cobs on the open fires. At other times I have considered these lives of basic activity and how seeing a white guy ride in on a bicycle would be something of an event, but now I was just lamenting my own stupidity of being the main act. Suddenly I heard a bike down the road. In a plume of dust and exhaust smoke it zoomed around the bend. As it came into focus I saw the guy on the back holding something. It came closer and I saw a pair of black sandals held in his hand. The idiot has taken someone else's shoes! As the bike pulled up I notice the huge grin on their faces and I look down. The driver is wearing my boots! To raucous applause he took off my boots and held them aloft. He then handed them to me and I gave him 1000k's for the trouble. I think it was about $8AUD but it may as well been $8Mil as the crowd went wild. Amongst the applause I put on my boots and rode back to the border to met Jess. Exhausted but richer for the experience.
Jess and our taxi rider
Heading back to the BorderMonday, February 08, 2010
No one goes hungry
'Hey give me a break, I haven't sold a single toothbursh!' I couldn't hear the exact conversion but body language speaks volumes over here.
We're sitting at a train stop in the village of Ribaue and the market is alive. It actually arrived with our train and will probably depart with it too. The guy selling the pens did very well, even though none of the blue ones actually worked, not a problem the green and red work fine - for those who actually chose those colours. The kid selling the donut looking things did great too. I think thats why toothbursh kid was a little unhappy when donut boy got cheeky with him. Sales had been great, his whole bucket was empty saving some scraps at the bottom and Donuts was counting his tidy wad of Meticash when toothbrush boy picked up some of the last morsels out of his bucket for a feed. Donuts knew Macleans was having a tough day but still gave him the look and asked the question of payment. When none was offered (well Macleans hadn't made a single sale) Donuts then started perusing Macleans merchandise, finely imported chinese 'Cool Jet' toothburshes offered at 5Mets a piece (20cents). Thats when Macleans snapped, for there was no way he'd give up one of his toothbrushes for the few crumbs he'd just eated. Thankfully Donuts was only joking and it went no further. The market has just disbanded, hopefully our train will do likewise.....
Pop up - rail side market at 'Ribaue'
We're sitting at a train stop in the village of Ribaue and the market is alive. It actually arrived with our train and will probably depart with it too. The guy selling the pens did very well, even though none of the blue ones actually worked, not a problem the green and red work fine - for those who actually chose those colours. The kid selling the donut looking things did great too. I think thats why toothbursh kid was a little unhappy when donut boy got cheeky with him. Sales had been great, his whole bucket was empty saving some scraps at the bottom and Donuts was counting his tidy wad of Meticash when toothbrush boy picked up some of the last morsels out of his bucket for a feed. Donuts knew Macleans was having a tough day but still gave him the look and asked the question of payment. When none was offered (well Macleans hadn't made a single sale) Donuts then started perusing Macleans merchandise, finely imported chinese 'Cool Jet' toothburshes offered at 5Mets a piece (20cents). Thats when Macleans snapped, for there was no way he'd give up one of his toothbrushes for the few crumbs he'd just eated. Thankfully Donuts was only joking and it went no further. The market has just disbanded, hopefully our train will do likewise.....
Train ride from Nampula to Cuamba
Pop up - rail side market at 'Ribaue'Try and spot Donuts & Macleans... there in there!
Wednesday, February 03, 2010
Ilha de Moçambique
The fan is making a flickering strobe effect on the light, the room needs a sign 'Epileptics be warned'. I switch off the light. I'm feeling stronger now, at least enough to eat. A bread roll with peanut butter smeared on it. I bought the rolls from a local market this morning. The vendor had stood there looking at me as though I should know what to do. Thankfully my prolonged blank response was enough to kick him into gear. How was I to know you select the rolls yourself, it would have felt rude. Anyway they taste good, still soft on the inside.
Last night was rough, I lost count after my tenth trip to the loo. I factored a few bouts of diarrhea into the itinerary but even so it's not fun. I thought I had a fever too so Malaria was on my mind, thankfully it was just from sun exposure - our stocks of sunscreen are very depleted and they don´t sell it here, our current supplies are borrowed from our last hostel owners.
Uve just switched on some tunes, soft Caribbean reggae beats. It suits. The passerbys by like it too, humming along as they pass the window. Ruby's has only been open two months yet most of the islanders can assist you with directions, it will prove a good business. Ihla de Mozambique itself is a very special place, easy to see why it´s World Heritage listed. The street scape has changed little over the last 100 years, apart from a little wear and tear, which only adds to it´s charm. Would be good though if ´M-Cel´ hadn´t gotten it´s hands on this place, they´re doing the 'Coca-Cola' thing with mobile phones here in Mozambique. It´s good to see some investment, but when see their bright yellow and green logo is painted all over every hut in a remote village in the middle of nowhere, well it can get a bit much. This island has an impressive fort, I think tomorrow I will have the strength to visit.
Last night was rough, I lost count after my tenth trip to the loo. I factored a few bouts of diarrhea into the itinerary but even so it's not fun. I thought I had a fever too so Malaria was on my mind, thankfully it was just from sun exposure - our stocks of sunscreen are very depleted and they don´t sell it here, our current supplies are borrowed from our last hostel owners.
Uve just switched on some tunes, soft Caribbean reggae beats. It suits. The passerbys by like it too, humming along as they pass the window. Ruby's has only been open two months yet most of the islanders can assist you with directions, it will prove a good business. Ihla de Mozambique itself is a very special place, easy to see why it´s World Heritage listed. The street scape has changed little over the last 100 years, apart from a little wear and tear, which only adds to it´s charm. Would be good though if ´M-Cel´ hadn´t gotten it´s hands on this place, they´re doing the 'Coca-Cola' thing with mobile phones here in Mozambique. It´s good to see some investment, but when see their bright yellow and green logo is painted all over every hut in a remote village in the middle of nowhere, well it can get a bit much. This island has an impressive fort, I think tomorrow I will have the strength to visit.
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