Serengeti Moments

We'll the train was canceled so we're back in Dar.... AGAIN! But it means I can post some pics from our Safari in the Serengeti.

Jess and Shully

Zebra crossing

Look Mr Frodo... it's an Oliphant!

A whole herd of them Sam!

Say g'day to 3.5 million Wildebeast

Tricky to spot them leopards.... but we got him.

If you want to know more about Buffalo ask Pauly. One hit his tent!

Giraffe are cool

And fun to chase!

Lion cubs are cute

Yep still cute

Especially at dinner time

A view over the plains

A Serengeti Sunset

Zanzibar Nutshell

I don't know what Muslims call it, but when they get up before sparrows fart and start chanting their prayers over the loud town speaker its time to move on. So we have... yep back to Dar... again. Not for long though as we'll be on a train back to Mbeya in a couple of hours.

As for Zanzibar, we'll other than the unrequested wake up calls I can't fault the joint. Seriously though why do they chant over the loud speaker? I respect their rights to worship their religion but not at the expense of some early morning shut eye for the rest of us. Ten past four they started this morning, that's not even a set time? But don't let my whinging deter you Stonetown in Zanzibar is a great spot to visit.
It's one of those medina set ups where you ain't got a hope in hell of finding your way around, but somehow you still do. Spice tour is good too, but I wasn't impressed with the chocolate plant. I'm not a fool I knew it wouldn't be wrapped in foil, but I hoped it would at least taste somewhere close to a Mars Bar. Nope its texture was closer to a soaked cotton ball and it's taste was well.... hello.... where are you? Later in the tour our guide took us to some old slave caves. The history seemed really interesting except for one thing. I couldn't understand a single word our guide was saying. He was so keen to tell us all about the Sultan and how he kept slaves in the cave that he forgot one little detail the English language. All I got was something about using rope, swimming hole, crocodiles in the dark and tip me more and I'll take you to show. Needless to saw all in our group passed on his generous offer.
The tour guides in general here in Africa have been a little sub par. They are just too eager to tell you everything and show you around, and it doesn't make sense as the rest of the country seems to have all the time in the world to do things... 'pole pole' (slowly slowly) being the motto of life over here. But the minute you pay them money to show you around they switch into overdrive. One time back in Mozambique at some botanical garden place in Penhalonga we had to ask our tour guide to leave us alone because he literally had a jogging to keep up with him. I guess they just need a little more training.

So now it's back to Malawi for us and some volunteering in Nkhata Bay.

PS Zanzibar banana chocolate pizza things rock!

Mount Kilimanjaro - Summit Day

I'm in a bus we've just finished safari in the Serengetti and we're heading back to Dar.

I never wrote another entry on Mt Kilimanjaro. It was attempted many times but this is the first time in 10 days since the mountain I've had some thought space to write. The short of it is we made the summit (yay!), but not as planned. On day 5 after reaching Barafu hut at lunchtime Hashim decided we'd make an afternoon attempt on the summit. It was weather related. There had been a big storm overnight and the climbers who summited had a horrible time of it. We saw them scattered around Barafu. Bloated, sun burnt and totally dishevvelled, as though they had just come off the frontline of a ferocious battle. The weather was clear that afternoon and Hashim wanted us to make an attempt before the storm returned and we'd had time to let the magnitude of the task sink in. His words 'Lets go to the top now. Don't talk to the other hikers'. So we ate lunch and left. His decision was well judged, for even though it was very difficult (Chris suffered badly from altitude sickness and was carried by Jamal & Roman for the last section) the weather stayed clear and we were treated to a glorious sunset.

At the summit (5895mtr) I got down on one knee and asked Jess to marry me, she said yes which sent my head spinning, then about 15mins later we descended in the twighlight as the storm rolled in. We got back to Barafu camp quite exhausted at around 8pm.

I can still see the summit out the bus window. From here it looks like someone has poured a small helping of white topping on some chocolate ice cream. From a distance that is all they look like, nothing much really. But they are the last glaciers in Africa and up close their beauty is unparalleled, as were my feelings as I gazed across a silk blue skyline a top the highest peak on the continent.

Jess and Jamal enroute to the summit

Jess at Stella point

Our team at the summit (left to right - Roman, Paul, Me, Jess, Hashim & Chris)

Paul & Jess (Mt Mwansi in background)

Me & Jess

Taking a break at the summit

Northern Icefield

Rebmann Glacier

Rebmann Glacier (close up)

Mount Kilimanjaro - Day 5

Was awoken by rain and wind, thankfully it has now subsided and the clouds have cleared a little. The summit is right above us covered in a fresh layer of overnight snow. I figure the snowline comes down to about 4800mtrs so tonights ascent will at least have no rain involved.

Yesterdays hike was short and not too difficult although crossing the 'kissing stone' on Barranco wall took a little bit of agility, in the wet it would be quite hazardous. So far no one has suffered altitude sickness other than a little light headedness on the aclimitisation walks. Yesterdays was a quiet affair, no one spoke for the whole ascent. It allowed us to hold great rhythm though and I could tell Hashim was pleased with it. He is a very quiet person and very in tune with his mountain, niether hold any secrets from the other. He'll look at the sun filled sky and say 'rain in 2 hours'. Then right on cue the clouds will build and yep it will start raining two hours later.

Today we're off to Barafu hut (4600mtrs) then at midnight we start our attempt on the summit, I just hope the wind holds off.

The summit peaks through the clouds at Karanga camp

Climbing the Barranco wall - near the 'kissing stone'

Mount Kilimanjaro - Day 4

Back in the meal tent, I'm the first up today after my best sleep to date. The face of Barranco wall is towering above our camp. Fresh overnight snow sits a few hundred meters above us along the ridge. I hope we get to walk through some snow today.

As the days pass I'm feeling more confident about our group. Yesterdday was a good test. We reached lava tower after 3hrs 20mins, passing most other groups along the way. We all felt a little light headed at the top but nothing to worry about.

I have begun chosing my words more carefully before speaking, its the altitude. When you're sitting still its fine, but on the uphills the deep breaths just aren't there, you suck it in but you can't get your fill. The experience is great though, I'm paying more attention to our surroundings as a result.

This morning we scale Barranco wall, soon after if the weather allows we'll be able to see our route to the summit. After my first decent sleep the task doesn't seem so daunting.... I'm starting to get excited!

Jess and Paul at Lava Tower (4600mtr)

Flora from a different world

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Barranco Wall

Jess at Barranco campsite

Mount Kilimanjaro - Day 3

Another restless night. I don't think its the altitude as much a rambling mind in the dark. I'm sitting in our meal tent looking out at the summit. The sun hasn't risen yet over it's peak and most of the Shira plateau is still in shadow. On yesterdays walk Hashim told of the Elephant and Buffalo herds that live up on the plateau, there is just so much beauty in this region. Today we set off for the lava tower. It's at 4600mtrs and will be our first major test of altitude. I'll listen to our guides today 'pole pole' all the way.

Paul's shirt froze over night

We're getting closer..... slowly

Mealtimes are always a reason to smile

These birds are as big a pelican

Mount Kilimanjaro - Day 2

Slept poorly, but the blue sky morning brought a smile. After a hearty breakfast and birthday greetings to Jess we set off. The terrain was steeper than yesterday but our pace was slower and no one struggled. We reached camp at midday just before the rain started. After some poopcorn and a nap we set off for an aclimitisation walk to to 4050mtrs. Jess got a nice surprise after dinner from the crew. Cake, Champange and then they started singing some special Swahili songs for her, the whole campsite was awash with their voices. Afterwards Jess had to feed cake to everybody, as per tradition apparently. The evenings events were very memorable experience for all of us.

Blue sky morning

Shira campsite (3800mtrs)

Jess and her birthday cake

Jess feeding our head guide Hashim

Mount Kilimanjaro - Day 1

I have attached an extract of the diary entries (with some photos) I wrote while climbing Mt Kilimanjaro. Our trek began on the the 4th of March 2010. We started on the Machame route with a view to complete the full ascent and descent in 7 days.

Day 1

We started off at 11:30AM from Machame gate, altitude 1800mtrs and spirits high. Our guide Hashim set a delibrately slow pace along a well treaded path through the thick rainforest. After a generous lunch of burger, chicken and bananas we continued. Hashim kept a closer eye on us after lunch but didn't enforce a slower pace until just before camp.

'Tomorrow more slowly', he said as we reached the Machame hut campsite (3000mtr).

As soon as camp was set up rain set in and the four of us (Jess, Paul, Chris & I) sat in the eating tent sharing our stories. Chris is a student from Sweden. He is young and enthusiatic about the climb, I think he will do well. Paul is my best mate from Australia, we don't get to catch up much and its great that he has come out to join Jess and I for Kili.

Dinner was generous - fish, patatoes, stew and vegetables. The rain stopped before sunset and the clouds cleared to reveal the summit, It looks so close, but it's still 5 days away.

Our porters helping with our bags. We had 9 porters in total

At the Machame entry gate

Jess and Chris into their tucker box

Day 1 destination

Mt Kili summit in the background