No Mans Land

Yesterday we were in no man’s land for about 15mins. Distance wise I would estimate it to be around 300mtrs between the border of South Africa and Mozambique. In this place businesses of every nature go on. Hawkers flogging goods at ‘special just for you…. Zulu prices’, money changers offering crazy exchange rates that would send the world back into a GFC, I even saw a bloke get handcuffed by an army dude because he was holding onto his bag too tightly.

I asked Jess if we could get a slice of the incredible exchange rate action going on, she declined. I asked again, she declined. Instead we went into one of the more esteemed establishments set up along ‘No Mans land’. It said “Insurance” out the front, but our bus conductor gave us good instruction… ‘Yes, money, change’ pointing at the hut. It had more resemblance to a temporary tuck shop back at Hampton Primary School, than a place of currency exchange, but we decided to try our luck.

We stepped inside to four Africans sitting around a table laidened with notes stacked inches high… all we needed was a black briefcase with ‘the goods’ and it had Hollywood drug deal scene take 1 written all over it. I decided against asking the question whether they change money figuring that would put us on the back foot for the negotiation, instead I just took out all our money and started counting. At this stage one of the money exchange street hawkers started banging on the window ‘4.2… 4.2’ I heard through the glass. It was a good rate so I repeated it to drug lord sitting behind the desk. His reply was a deep laugh that only a Nigerian could pull off.....‘4’ he replied. I looked at Jess and briefly considered arguing the point. I placed the Rand on the counter and we watched as he counted out his notes, all the while his three cronies stood there not letting their eyes off us.

‘4400’ he said through his cigar as he placed the last note in front of me. I knew it was a little short, but it was clear the negotiation phase had passed. We took the money and stepped out of the shop and back into the peaceful mayhem of ‘No Man’s Land’, feeling somewhat inducted into it’s chaotic realm.