Fish River Canyon - Day 5

I made it :)
It's 11AM and I've just started on my 2nd beer. I got into Ai-Ais about 9:30AM. It's a nice spot with a big bar that conveniently opens at 10AM, though not many people are around to join me. I've definitely hit Namibia in the low season.

I didn't sleep so well last night, the sand felt as hard as concrete and I just lay right. I can't blame the evening though, another blissfully starry sky. I used the 'Southern Cross' to work out where I was heading today. It made me feel like a ship's navigator out at sea. The hike this morning was one of reflection. I didn't have a map to distract me so I let my mind continue to drift off in thought. The river crossings were also of a peaceful nature, gone the battles of the days prior. I decided to attempt this canyon on a bit of a whim and it's rewarded me greatly.

Some thing's in life you plan to enjoy.... other things you just enjoy, no plan.

Last morning in the canyon

Wild horse at dawn

A drink to success

18 notches cut - 1 for each river crossing.

Fish River Canyon - Day 4

I went for a swim this afternoon. It is the first time on this whole hike I have voluntarily got into the water. While I lay there floating on my back starring up at the full moon rising over the canyon I realized something. I have the river all wrong. It isn't something I need to conquer, it's something I should embrace. Afterall without it's water I would probably be dying of thirst right now.

Today my arrogance and stubbornness cost me about 3 hours in wasted time, but it could have been a whole lot worse. I didn't read my map correctly after one of the short cuts across a ridge. As a result I tried scaling a 100mtr cliff face which was stupid. About a third way up my hand grip pulled out a huge chunk of rock which tumbled down to the river bank below. I got the signal.... wrong way! I turned back, but it took me 2 more wrong turns until I finally accepted my error and retraced my steps which got me got on track.

I also lost my map on one of the river crossings today. I even watched it float down the river. It was a little distance off when I spotted it and thought it to be a large insect enjoying a free ride. I only realized once I reached the other bank and felt for my map that it was no insect. I figure I'm around the 80km mark so I'm not stressed if anything it just sent me deeper into my thought.

With an early start tomorrow I should be in Ai-Ais before lunchtime.

Moon rising over the canyon

A marker I set up to assist hikers with a river crossing

Here I miss read my map and attempted to scale the cliff on the right of this picture

Disappointment upon realizing the error of my ways

Contrasting rock formations side by side

Upstream view

Fish River Canyon - Day 3

Lunchtime
If yesterday was a challenge of the physical nature today is one of the mental thanks in main to having to cross this river. To help me I have a new friend, his name is 'River'. It's a stick, and no I haven't gone 'Wilson!' crazy from the solitude, he's just my lucky stick and with his assistance I've made 6 successful river crossings this morning. I see the river as the mountain on the this hike and a worthy adversary it is. On 2 occasions I have been forced to turn back from an attempt to cross. I'm adding another obstacle to yesterdays post. The water itself is brown like chocolate, so thick you can't see a thing. Every step has to be fully felt out, checking you have a firm base before you heave your weight from one leg to the other.

So far, so good. I'm at the 40km mark, hoping to reach 50km before dusk. Considering I only made 3km on the first day I'm happy where I'm at.

Evening
The afternoon proved a tougher slog. Managed only 1 more river crossing, should have done 3 but my feet are getting cut up by the rocks so went the long way round.

I was treated to a tribe of monkeys playing on the rocks earlier. I also saw a large Kudu. Being alone I am noticing a lot more around me. The sounds of the wild can sometimes feel like personal messages only for me. Especially the wind. I have been listening carefully when it speaks, taking me back to my time when I read 'The Alchemist'. I find it helps to guide my thoughts.

Tomorrow I'm aiming for the 70km marker which I am confident of achieving. Perhaps I'll meet some humans along the way.

My stick 'River' his friend 'Ski' and my 2 feet

Sun setting in the canyon

Campsite Day 3

Fish River Canyon - Day 2

I can hear the water rushing over the rapids a few hundred meters downstream.... that's it. There is no other sound to be heard, unless I make it. I'm feeling quite tired and a little spaced out. This is the first time in my life where I am 100% in isolation. No people, no phone, I don't even have a watch... just me and the river. I think I have a mild case of heat exhaustion from the steady hiking through the afternoon heat.

I left my SA companions before sunrise and have yet to catch up with the hikers in front of me. This is despite covering what I estimate to be 23km today. I found the terrain to be challenging and at times very frustrating. On two occasional I attempted a river crossing only to have to turn back. The water is running too fast for me to keep balanced. My pack doesn't help that - 20kg's, add to it some poor flip flops and rocks covered in a film of slimy dirt and it looks like a long hike ahead. But I will have to work out something if I'm going to make the 90km's in 5 days. I just have to get across this river to make use of the short cuts.

Earlier today I almost bumped into a wild horse. It was quite surreal. I was scrambling over some rocks along the river bank then all of a sudden there was a horse standing straight in front of me. It was the afternoon and I'd been hiking solidly for some hours, wondering if the heat was playing tricks with my head I didn't think it was real. Then he flapped his tale as to say hello and we walked along the canyon together for a while, him leading the way.

A lonely wind just blew up, time for bed.

Morning sun not yet reaching inside the canyon

My hiking companion for the day

Campsite day 2

Fish River Canyon - Day 1

Hard work on the descent but made easier thanks to a 'Bells on the rocks' at 'Sakkie's clip' - A full glass of straight whiskey that must be skulled before passing the huge boulder that sits on the left bank a few km's into the canyon. Who am I to question tradition thus I drunk it down, though I barely managed to keep it down.We didn't make it much further into the canyon then decided to set up camp amongst small rock laden beach. The moon was already high in the sky by dusk and in two days should be at full shine. Box taught me how to find South using the 'Southern Cross' and the two markers. Their experience as a whole has been most assuring for me and I feel much more confident for learning from their 20 odd hikes they have made through the canyon.

I spotted a bunch of 'Fish River Canyon' badges on Sakkie's rucksack, I'm keen to earn one for myself. The stillness of the night was mesmerizing, gazing into the starry night as I drifted off into one of the most peaceful sleeps I can recall.

Bells on the Rocks at Sakkies Clip

Box, Sakkie, Piet, Cornelia & Tinnas

Fish River Canyon - Pre hike

Are there lions in this park?
That was my parting question as I was dropped off into the starry night of the Ai-Ais - Richtersveld national park in southern Namibia. Depending on which opinion I used, I was still either 3km or 10km short of my destination - Hobas camp. It's the starting point for hiking the 'Fish River Canyon' trail, a 90km trek through 'reportedly' the 2nd largest canyon in the world.

Thanks to a half moon I made brisk progress and made it to camp in about 40mins, no lions to report of. There I met an experienced bunch of South African hikers preparing for bed. After some pleasant introductions they kindly welcomed me to join them in their hiking party which was to set off in the morning. I set up my sleeping mat and after a long days travel was soon asleep.

My food supplies for the hike

My drop off point

The Fish River Canyon